Toilets and Showers

A lot of people told me that they wouldn't want to take this trek because of the toilets. I said I'd be fine with the toilets, but that I was worried about the bathing facilities. So I thought I'd devote a whole blog entry to toilets and showers. You can decide if you'd be OK with these facilities, or even if you want to read this post. 

Actually, I had no idea that bodily functions would be such a huge part of this trip. We had to do lots of hydrating to combat altitude problems, and that is naturally followed by, you guessed it, de-hydrating. So that, combined with the gastrointestinal difficulties that are so common up here, and you begin to understand why toileting facilities turned out to be a big part of our trek. 

The trip started with some of the most amazing toilets I've ever seen - in the Minneapolis Saint Paul airport. They were clean, large, and beautiful, with lots of marble and an electronic display at the entrance listing wait time. Perhaps a little over the top? 

The toilets in the Chicago airport were some of the strangest i've ever seen. They were western style, but the toilet was wrapped in plastic, which was changed to new plastic at a touch of a button. 

We encountered our first squat toilets at the Kathmandu airport, domestic terminal. We spent five hours there, so I was grateful for them - they did the job. A Minnesota friend of mine told me once that she prefers public squat toilets - she thinks they are more hygienic than the seat style. These were a bit dirty. There was a bucket for toilet paper (bring your own) and a pitcher to sluice the toilet when you were done. 

Our hotel in Kathmandu had at attached bathroom, but the shower resembled those we saw in Cambodia. The shower was along one wall, and using it made the whole room wet. But again, it was fairly warm, so we were delighted. We even had power and outlets in that room, but they only worked sporadically - several hours on, and several hours off. 

Finding toilet facilities on the trail out of Lukla was a bit of a challenge, especially at first, when we didn't always recognize them. And since we were trying to drink a lot of water, we needed them pretty quickly. But soon we saw a building marked toilet, and gratefully checked it out. It was a small building on a slope. There was a hole in the floor and a mound of leaves. That's it. Very biodegradable. I liked the simplicity. 

We paid an extra 300 rupees our first night on the trail for an attached bathroom, including hot showers from solar heat. Notice that I've managed some sort of hot shower every day so far? Again the shower got the whole room wet, but that was OK. Still western toilets. 

Our hotel in Namche was very nice, but the shared toilets were in small stalls, with a sink in the hallway. We paid 300 rupees (about $4) each for hot showers. Heavenly, but expensive. 

Along the trail we continue to find those simple outhouses, with just a hole in the floor and some native material stacked at hand. I don't mind them, although I did find pine needles in my undies the other day!

It took me while to figure out what to do when there was no toilet building. Eventually I noticed small paths leading off the main trail. They are the equivalent of going behind a tree, although the amount of actual privacy varies. Still, most people have learned to avert their eyes in those locations. I've learned to carry a small plastic bag so I can carry out my trash, though others are not so considerate. 

Our lodge in the tiny hilltop monestary community of Tengboche was one of my least favorite. The small bathroom at the end of the hallway had a squat toilet, a bucket for paper (of course not provided), and two bins of water. One was to "flush" the toilet. The other had a spigot and sink to wash hands. Not bad, though hard for bathing. I managed after a fashion, despite the cold wind whistling though the broken window and cracks in the walls. Oh, I guess there was some paper provided. There was an old paperback book, which was clearly being used, one page at a time. 

Down in Deboche, the only running water was in the kitchen, but the bathrooms had larger barrels of water and Western style toilets. I do like to sit down to do my business on occasion, so that was a welcome change. Without running water, it is necessary to pour pitchers of water in until it "flushes". I bathed right over the bowl, figuring it could also drain my soapy water. I was cold when I was done, but clean! We could have paid 400 rupees ( about $5) for hot showers, but I am cheap!

The situation got more rustic at our next stop, Dingboche, at 4,400 meters, or just under 14,000 feet. The toilet was the same, a western seat with a water barrel and scoop to flush it, but it was outside. So if we needed to pee in the night we had to walk outside about 30 feet, through the fridgid wind. So I begged a discarded water bottle from a fellow hiker and set out our female funnel. Have I given you more details than you wanted yet? I was grateful we had brought it. Bathing the first day was a very sketchy wet wash cloth, but the next day we washed hair in the yard. It felt so good to be clean!

It turns out that above about 5,000 meters I really lower my washing standards. It's too cold to sweat as much, and washing in ice cold water when the air temperature is below 40 degrees is just not fun. But then Meg came up with a brilliant plan. We had already been ordering a pot of water with dinner. We'd each have tea, then pour the remainder in our metal water bottle, to warm up our toes in our sleeping bags. But then she realized that the water was still lukewarm in the morning - perfect for a wash. I'm amazed at how much cleaning can be done with half a bottle of warm water. 

So that's it. We're headed down now, so I don't think we will encounter much else. We are creatively clean and healthy, so now I know that I was right - I could handle all the toilets as long as I have some way to get clean every day.  I'm just more flexible about how I do that than I expected. Perhaps you would be too!

Thin Air

Thursday and Friday

Every time we move higher, the terrain changes. It's stunning. 

Thursday we woke to a heavy cloud over everything. But we felt good, and ready to move on, so we packed up and left Dingboche, 14,000 feet. 

For the first couple hours we hiked along the side of a mountain - I think. With the heavy mist/cloud, it was hard to be sure what we were missing. But the mist had its own other wold beauty. Thukla, the half way point, was larger than I expected, and we stopped for a snack. We met a group consisting of two families, each with a 14 year old and a 16 year old plus parents. They were down to a ragtag 5 members, but the girls were delightful. Right out of Dugla was another steep hill, and we leapfrogged with the girls the whole way. 

At the top were the memorials to fallen climbers. It's kind of erie but also kind of wonderful. We found the memorial to Scott Fisher, who died in 1996, and the one for the Canadian woman who died last year. Many were in languages I couldn't read. 

Another hour or two in the bed of an old glacier and we reached Locuche. It is always astonishing, and usually a huge relief, when a turn in the trail reveals the roofs of a settlement. We chose Mother Earth House, where for the lofty price of 500 rupees (about $6) per night we got real mattresses. After the 1/2 foam from Dingboche, it felt great. But sleep was still hard to come by. At 16,000 feet, it was getting harder to breathe. And colder. The thermometer said it was 43 degrees in our room, but in the after-hiking chill that felt COLD.

After settling in, I left Meg in the dining room and hiked up alone up the valley to see the Italian research station. They have this gorgeous pyramid, covered with solar panels. On my way back, I stopped to just sit on a rock. The edge of the glacial valley was so quiet. Clouds still obscured most of the mountains, but I got the occasional view. 

Friday also dawned cloudy, which was disappointing since we planned to go higher and get our views of Everest. Meg wasn't feeling so well either. We decided to take day packs up to Gorek Shep. If it was still cloudy, we'd come back, grab our gear and head lower. 

I loved the hike. First was more of the glacial valley, a gentle ascent. Then we climbed a hill and the way got rockier and rockier. We turned a corner, looked down, and there was an actual active valley glacier. I've seen plenty of glacial valleys, but never one still filled with ice. The top layer was dirty, but there were big holes where we could see the aqua tinge of the ice and some were filled with water like mini lakes. Other places there were hundreds of strange ice mounds. I was in awe. 

But we were still not to Gorek Shep, the highest settlement. Meg was getting very tired - she said that if she had her sleeping bag, she'd curl up right there on the trail. She didn't. Fortunately, Gorek Shep really was only five minutes away, and we lost no time in settling in the sunny common room of the first lodge. As we ate our fried veg noodles and soup (delicious), the clouds started to break up. I decided that I really did want to climb Kala Patar, the nearby peak with the good views. But I wasn't willing to take Meg. She agreed to wait for me. 

The first part of the hill went fast. It felt good to go exactly my pace. It looked like I might be there quick. But the trail went up. It got rockier, and steeper and it was harder to get my breath. Eventually I could see the flags at the top, but they weren't getting closer very fast. There were many clouds, but every so often I could see the snow covered mountains, the darker Everest, glaciers, and even catch glimpses of Everest Base Camp. 

Finally I reached the top, marked by all the colorful prayer flags. 18,000 feet. On my own two feet. I didn't even need to have a view to feel very satisfied, but what a view I had! I quick tool pictures and video, including of me, and ate the Mars bar I'd been carrying since Namche. It felt even more special to have the whole place to myself. What a memory!

Next step: down. Back to creature comforts like enough oxygen, indoor running water, and some heat. 

Meg's Reflections - Good Sense Trumps Ambition

The trip from Lobuche to Gorek Shep was hard, to say the least. Lobuche sits at 16,175 feet and my body was not fond of the altitude. Sleep was more challenging than at any other time on the trip, and even going up one flight of stairs left me breathing hard. We left for Gorek Shep early, through blowing mists. We knew we were surrounded by snowy mountain peaks, but could not see them. With slow small steps we walked through the mist. Each time the trail headed uphill I had to fight for breath past the tightness in my chest. After more than an hour of slow trekking, we rounded the corner and the mist parted so we could see down to a huge glacier in the valley below. Most of it was covered in stones, but there were glimpses of deep blue ice. 

The last half hour to Gorek Shep was one of the hardest things I've ever done.  My head hurt.  My chest hurt from the constant effort to breath.  There were stunning views each time the mists blew aside for a moment but it was hard to appreciate them.  My world narrowed to a routine.  Walk four steps and stop to breathe. Walk another four steps and decide again not to give in to the fierce desire to lie down behind a boulder and go to sleep. Half an hour or 45 minutes and at least ten decisions not to lie down on the cold sharp gravel and we were there.   

At that point I knew my judgement was impaired and I decided to leave decisions in Toby's hands.  After several cups of tea and a bowl of soup, the sun came out and I thought perhaps I could go up Kala Pattar after all.  Toby didn't think so though, so in the end she climbed the peak while I sat in the lodge, drinking tea, watching the clouds blow past the mountains and talking with one of the lodge staff about his work and life.  I was disapointed and sad not to complete the final few hours of the trip,  but very happy to be warm and safe in the lodge and rested enough to get back to our lodge in Lobuche when she returned.   And I made it to Gorek Shep and back safely.  Not bad for someone's grey haired mother.   

Cold and Dirty

We hiked a long day yesterday, rising above treeline to Dingboche, at 4,400 meters, or just under 14,000 feet. The hike took us most of the day, but it felt easier than previous days. The acclimatization day had worked!Dingboche is spread out quite a ways along the trail, and we walked past them all before settling at the Sherpa Land Lodge, which looked cared for and had people hanging out in the sunny restaurant/common room.  The down side was the outside bathroom. The lodge is set up like a tiny motel, with the tiny rooms all facing into a courtyard that is somewhat protected from the wind. Our room had a view of the stone wall surrounding the lodge, which was uninspiring but probably warmer than rooms with a view. 

We spent the afternoon and dinner hour getting to know our fellow guests. That has been the unexpected bonus of this trip - I didn't realize we would get quite so much time getting to know people from Australia, England, Sweden, India, California, Austria and more. Not to mention the lodge owners and guides from Nepal. And thanks to the Internet, I can keep them long after our trip!

However, despite all the good parts, Meg and I both woke up tired and discouraged. As Minnesotans, I was sure we could handle the cold, but our 45 degree room gave me quite the chill. The common room wasn't much warmer. Meg had altitude symptoms again, along with tingling fingers and toes, a side effect of the Diamox. We considered heading back to Namche, where we had been clean and warm. But after a very leisurely breakfast, we headed out on a day trip toward Island Peak. It was a gradual ascent and incredible views, but now it was my turn to be breathless, tired, and nauseous. Good thing we didn't try to go higher today. 

We still may head back down at any time. I love being in these mountains, and the views are spectacular, but the wind, cold, and altitude take their toll. I try to remember that this trip is not about the finish line, but the journey. But perhaps we will wake up tomorrow ready to head higher. 

Tengboche

Sunday and Monday

I'm really struck by the fact that everyone we see now has walked here. There is no free lunch - everyone got here on their own two feet, down steps, across bridges and up all these steep hills. 

Sunday was another really hard day for us. We went down 350 meters of elevation, then up 750. So even though the net gain was only 400, we climbed much more than that. And all of that climb came at the end of the day, in the form of a 750 meter(about 2,000 feet) hill to the tiny hill top monestary community of Tengboche. Meg wasn't feeling well, so we took the hill very slowly, but so did most people, as it rose and rose and rose. 

I pondered other ways I could have been spending my vacation. I could have been sitting on a beach, with a book, for much less money. Instead I was pulling my body and my 12 kg pack (about 25 pounds) step after difficult step up a mountain in the strong sun without enough oxygen. Crazy, right?

But this was SO much more interesting. Everytime I risked looking up, my eyes were filled with the sight of snow capped mountains, in every direction. The rhododendrons were still in bloom, with their red, pink, and white flowers. Inside, I took joy in noticing how well my bones and muscles and brain worked together to keep me moving even when it was hard. And of course there were the other trail inhabitants to keep us amused. 

Now that we are above Namche, the trail is all about trekking. Most of the porters are carrying loads of trekker gear, two large duffles lashed together, or several packs. The rest of the trail is hikers, coming down and going up, and many were ready to talk. 

Meg's first trail friend was a young man from Tibet who fled as a teen and now can't get back to see his ailing parents. He is running a lodge up the Gokyo valley. We hiked awhile with an Indian man, part of a large group of Indians hiking to base camp. A Polish woman and her guide struggled along with us awhile. And near the end of the day Meg met another person from the big group - an Indian woman heading to base camp to meet her husband as he returned from his summit bid later this week. She had her 11 year old with her. He was carrying a 5 kg daypack like the rest of the group and was doing fine. I was impressed. She's a pre-primary school teacher (early childhood education in the US) so she and Meg had lots to talk about. 

We're getting more and more glimpses of happenings at base camp. An Australian man told us about meeting his goal - camp three. He was glad to leave the very rustic tent village of base camp. A man from Wisconsin had been given a tour of base camp. He told us that the camp was really big - maybe 1,000 people right now, as most groups were preparing for their final summit bids this week. We've been seeing a steady stream of helicopters, perhaps a dozen or more a day, and he said that they were all rescues, some taking people from as high as camp 2.  I have no idea how a helicopter can land there! 

We also saw bundles of large tents going down and huge black gear cases. I assume that with all the evacuations, both self and helicopter, and those with lower goals finishing up, base camp is starting to be dismantled. Once climbers return from the summit, I think they head down pretty quickly. We may find the trail quite crowded on our own way out. On the other hand, people heading out seem to want to talk, and we like listening. And the lodges are very quiet now. We wouldn't mind a bit more bustle. 

So after a very long eight hour trekking day, we collapsed at the Trekkers Lodge in Tengboche, just in time for afternoon services at the monestary. We took off our dusty boots and filed in to the brightly painted monestary along with a lot of other Trekkers. Two monks chanted while a third waved incense around. We sat on the right side of the room on carpets, shivering. After awhile the monks filed put, and then came back to tell us that we could leave now - the service was over. Funny. 

I didn't like the Trekkers Lodge. It was small, dingy and smoky, and the couple running it weren't very welcoming. I thought I was expecting too much, but tonight we are settled in the Rhodendreon Lodge just down the trail in Debuche, and it is delightful. Clean, western toilet, indoor running water in the kitchen, warm, and not smoky. Oh, and we had a most delightful visit with the owner over a lunch of curry vegetable pizza. 

And so far, a combination of Diamox and a rest day are working wonders. We are about 100 meters lower too. If we feel this good in the morning we will head all the way to Pheriche. If not, we'll stop in Pangboche. Never fear, we are being sensible!

Namche Bazaar

Friday and Saturday

I wanted a hard challenge on this trip, and if I didn't think that our first day was hard enough, today (Friday) was the Namche Hill. I've read accounts from plenty of Trekkers who weren't prepared for the hill. Of course, I WAS prepared. But it was still really hard. 

We started the day with delicious porridge and overcooked omelet, then headed up stone steps, down steps, and so on until we reached the national park checkpoint, officially entering Sagarmatha National Park. For awhile we hiked right next to the Dudh Kosi, which was almost flat. But then we spotted the final bridge of the day in the distance - and VERY high up. Sure enough, more steps appeared, and we went up, and up, and up. I had to use my hands to balance the narrow rocky ledges. I have no idea how the porters with their loads managed. 

We traveled slow but steady today, which meant we saw some porters over and over again. There were a couple carrying sheets of plywood. One had five pieces of 3/8 th inch boards, about 3' x 6'. Another had a stack of "green boards", thinner boards of the same dimensions, along with a few pieces of metal roof sheeting. See the loads next to Meg? the porters had stopped for a well deserved rest. I would have trouble carrying that from the car to the house, let alone up steep, slippery steps like we had today. 

We continue to be struck by the fact that everything we eat, sit on, shelter in, etc. was carried here. A few things are grown or hewn locally, and a few things were brought by helicopter, but everything else came by porter or yak. There were three boxed toilets waiting to take our flight to Lukla, then get carried up. We passed a black metal stove several times today. Bags of rice, bundles of bed foam - you name it, and we've seen it. 

After crossing the high bridge, we climbed many tall steps perched precariously on the edge of the mountain. After an eternity, the path got smoother and dustier, with more switchbacks and fewer steps. Descending hikers estimated another hour and a half! So we kept plodding. It was never too hard, if we didn't think about the future too much. At one stop, we shared our peanut butter cookies with a porter. That was fun. I also loved getting the guard at the checkpoint to smile. 

But finally, finally, we arrived. And got lost again. Namche is confusing and very steep, so it's hard to want to explore. We couldn't find the lodge we'd picked, and settled for another that a guide on the trail recommended. At that point we were so glad to put down our loads that we weren't picky. After unpacking, we headed down, and found "downtown", and the Namche Bakery, where our yak cheese pizza came with a side of free Internet. We posted about Thursday, checked email, and heard the fabulous news about the marriage vote. Yeah!

Saturday is the big market day in Namche Bazaar. Goods come from Lukla, but they are also carried in from Tibet. Meg likes busy farmers markets, so she went to explore, though she didn't buy anything. 

After breakfast we packed up and moved hotels - to the one we wanted first. So far it is much nicer. We have the same two simple platform beds with toilet down a long hallway, but our room has amazing light and stunning views. The clouds just came rolling in, then out, leaving amazing light behind. These two photos were taken from the windows of our room. 

Today is for acclimatization. We hiked straight up the hill, perhaps 400 meters of elevation gain. My headache is finally gone, but Meg wasn't feeling so hot, so we took it very slow. We know that is fine, but it is still hard to be passed by a 3 year old and old woman carrying a full load of groceries from market. 

I loved watching the helicopters. Many of them are evacuating ill or injured Trekkers, but today we saw one touring people around the region. This one did not crash - apparently this is an appropriate helicopter move! 

Tonight I walked around Namche. I've already added too many pictures, or I'd add another night shot of lit peaks looming over Namche. It's beautiful. And there are so many people to talk to! So many people we met in on the bus, plane, airport, or on the trail seem to show up here, greeting us as long lost friends after sharing just one conversation. 

Tomorrow we head to Tengboche monestary, considered the second hardest day. 

Reflections from Meg - 2

I am especially struck by the contrast of the last few days.  From the honking horns, dirt and cheerful chaos of Kathmandu to Lukla with its green orderly fields of lush potatoes and tall onions, the quiet broken only by the chiming of yak and mule bells and the occasional helicopter.   

Yet each time I think I've returned to a previous century I am swiftly reminded that we are firmly in the present.  The young woman driving the yak towards me is texting with one hand while she harries the yak with the stick in the other hand.   The younger porters listen to their I pods as they haul their heavy hand woven baskets up hill.  And while some of the porters are carrying the eggs and vegetables that could be from any time past or present, others haul propane or big sheets of plywood. And in the tiny room of our very rustic hotel, the staff are watching music videos  on a flat screen TV while they wait for customers.

In a similar fashion, even in this new landscape I see so many reminders of home.  The mother shooing the chickens from her door, just as I do many mornings.  The toddlers escaping down the street, only to be caught by a caring neighbor.  People stopping in the street to answer cell phones.  And most of all, the young woman who paused in her gardening to serve us lunch at her families restaurant.  While she waited for us to finish, a neighbor walking by with a young child stopped to chat and in the end left the toddler with our waitress.  As we walked away the young woman and the toddler were crouched by the garden weeding.  As the toddler waved a vigorous goodbye I thought how much like our Claire that young woman seemed . Perhaps I'm not so far from home after all.  

On the trail - Day One

Thursday, May 9th

Meg and I walked down the quiet, shuttered Kathmandu street before dawn this morning. For once the streets were almost quiet. By now they are bustling with bright colors, sharp smells and a cacophony of sounds. But we are not there. 

We whizzed through the domestic terminal, and before we knew it, we were boarding our 20 passenger Twin Otter plane for the trip 90 miles and 5,000 feet of elevation into the mountains. The plane was loud - the flight attendant passed out cotton balls for our ears. It was also terrifying and exhilarating to fly through huge cottonball clouds, wondering if the pilots would be able to land. They fly only by sight. But eventually they dived down and we magically found ourselves on the short 1,500 foot runway. 

And as I climbed out of the hatch and descended the ladder, I spotted my friend TA, waiting to board. There was only time for a quick hug and this photo - I was turning my head to "meet" TA's partner Marion when Meg snapped the picture, and there was no time for a retake. 

Outside the airstrip, past the throngs of porters hoping for work, there was no road. No cars. Just stone steps up and down - the trail.  After a quick stop at a tea house to reassure you all that we survived we started hiking and promptly got lost. We wandered through the Lukla daily market before we rejoined the main trail. 

We need to gain about 9,000 feet of elevation on this trip, but the first day was mostly downhill. 300 meters of down gave my thighs quite a workout - they're still sore. But the terrain was amazing. Much of the trail is made of stone - there is a lot of it here. Fields are carefully barricaded off with waist high stone walls, allowing the animals to run free. And there are many animals. Chickens getting shooed out of houses, dogs sleeping just about anywhere, and the cows and horses who use the trail as pasture. Yak bells herald the approach of trains of donkeys or Dzongkha, yak- like beasts. We will see real yaks farther up. 

The trail is also the superhighway for all the human inhabitants of the region. Kids going to school, women going shopping with small children in tow, Trekkers, and of course the porters with their monster loads. 

Nepali women with small children, porters with monster loads, kids walking to school, and a few hikers made up the human inhabitants of the trail. Dogs and chicken show up around every village. 

We crossed our first bridges too. I'm sure ( actually, I am) that they are strong and safe. But they take getting used to. Huge cables stretch from one side of the river to the other, holding a metal floor and chain link sides, decorated with tattered prayer flags. Walking across by yourself involves some swaying. Sharing the bridge with others means all sorts of competing vibrations. It's not a good idea to share the bridge with animals. I'm getting the hang of looking down at the floor of the bridge without looking down to the river rushing dozens or hundreds of feet below. 

We hiked as far as we could, knowing that it would help with the long second day awaiting us. We ended up in a charming lodge in Monjo. We sprung for a room with attached bathroom, which included hot showers. Bliss. An early bedtime was in order for our aching bodies, so we snuggled in warm and tight. 

Coming soon: the Namche Hill