Cold and Dirty

We hiked a long day yesterday, rising above treeline to Dingboche, at 4,400 meters, or just under 14,000 feet. The hike took us most of the day, but it felt easier than previous days. The acclimatization day had worked!Dingboche is spread out quite a ways along the trail, and we walked past them all before settling at the Sherpa Land Lodge, which looked cared for and had people hanging out in the sunny restaurant/common room.  The down side was the outside bathroom. The lodge is set up like a tiny motel, with the tiny rooms all facing into a courtyard that is somewhat protected from the wind. Our room had a view of the stone wall surrounding the lodge, which was uninspiring but probably warmer than rooms with a view. 

We spent the afternoon and dinner hour getting to know our fellow guests. That has been the unexpected bonus of this trip - I didn't realize we would get quite so much time getting to know people from Australia, England, Sweden, India, California, Austria and more. Not to mention the lodge owners and guides from Nepal. And thanks to the Internet, I can keep them long after our trip!

However, despite all the good parts, Meg and I both woke up tired and discouraged. As Minnesotans, I was sure we could handle the cold, but our 45 degree room gave me quite the chill. The common room wasn't much warmer. Meg had altitude symptoms again, along with tingling fingers and toes, a side effect of the Diamox. We considered heading back to Namche, where we had been clean and warm. But after a very leisurely breakfast, we headed out on a day trip toward Island Peak. It was a gradual ascent and incredible views, but now it was my turn to be breathless, tired, and nauseous. Good thing we didn't try to go higher today. 

We still may head back down at any time. I love being in these mountains, and the views are spectacular, but the wind, cold, and altitude take their toll. I try to remember that this trip is not about the finish line, but the journey. But perhaps we will wake up tomorrow ready to head higher.