Namche Bazaar

Friday and Saturday

I wanted a hard challenge on this trip, and if I didn't think that our first day was hard enough, today (Friday) was the Namche Hill. I've read accounts from plenty of Trekkers who weren't prepared for the hill. Of course, I WAS prepared. But it was still really hard. 

We started the day with delicious porridge and overcooked omelet, then headed up stone steps, down steps, and so on until we reached the national park checkpoint, officially entering Sagarmatha National Park. For awhile we hiked right next to the Dudh Kosi, which was almost flat. But then we spotted the final bridge of the day in the distance - and VERY high up. Sure enough, more steps appeared, and we went up, and up, and up. I had to use my hands to balance the narrow rocky ledges. I have no idea how the porters with their loads managed. 

We traveled slow but steady today, which meant we saw some porters over and over again. There were a couple carrying sheets of plywood. One had five pieces of 3/8 th inch boards, about 3' x 6'. Another had a stack of "green boards", thinner boards of the same dimensions, along with a few pieces of metal roof sheeting. See the loads next to Meg? the porters had stopped for a well deserved rest. I would have trouble carrying that from the car to the house, let alone up steep, slippery steps like we had today. 

We continue to be struck by the fact that everything we eat, sit on, shelter in, etc. was carried here. A few things are grown or hewn locally, and a few things were brought by helicopter, but everything else came by porter or yak. There were three boxed toilets waiting to take our flight to Lukla, then get carried up. We passed a black metal stove several times today. Bags of rice, bundles of bed foam - you name it, and we've seen it. 

After crossing the high bridge, we climbed many tall steps perched precariously on the edge of the mountain. After an eternity, the path got smoother and dustier, with more switchbacks and fewer steps. Descending hikers estimated another hour and a half! So we kept plodding. It was never too hard, if we didn't think about the future too much. At one stop, we shared our peanut butter cookies with a porter. That was fun. I also loved getting the guard at the checkpoint to smile. 

But finally, finally, we arrived. And got lost again. Namche is confusing and very steep, so it's hard to want to explore. We couldn't find the lodge we'd picked, and settled for another that a guide on the trail recommended. At that point we were so glad to put down our loads that we weren't picky. After unpacking, we headed down, and found "downtown", and the Namche Bakery, where our yak cheese pizza came with a side of free Internet. We posted about Thursday, checked email, and heard the fabulous news about the marriage vote. Yeah!

Saturday is the big market day in Namche Bazaar. Goods come from Lukla, but they are also carried in from Tibet. Meg likes busy farmers markets, so she went to explore, though she didn't buy anything. 

After breakfast we packed up and moved hotels - to the one we wanted first. So far it is much nicer. We have the same two simple platform beds with toilet down a long hallway, but our room has amazing light and stunning views. The clouds just came rolling in, then out, leaving amazing light behind. These two photos were taken from the windows of our room. 

Today is for acclimatization. We hiked straight up the hill, perhaps 400 meters of elevation gain. My headache is finally gone, but Meg wasn't feeling so hot, so we took it very slow. We know that is fine, but it is still hard to be passed by a 3 year old and old woman carrying a full load of groceries from market. 

I loved watching the helicopters. Many of them are evacuating ill or injured Trekkers, but today we saw one touring people around the region. This one did not crash - apparently this is an appropriate helicopter move! 

Tonight I walked around Namche. I've already added too many pictures, or I'd add another night shot of lit peaks looming over Namche. It's beautiful. And there are so many people to talk to! So many people we met in on the bus, plane, airport, or on the trail seem to show up here, greeting us as long lost friends after sharing just one conversation. 

Tomorrow we head to Tengboche monestary, considered the second hardest day.