London

 I was worried about London. Getting there was complicated, the airbnb had all sorts of red flags, and I couldn't think of anything I wanted to do there. But Adam *really* wanted to go, and mom did too, so on Monday, we boarded the ferry and off we went. 

The weather forecast for the ferry was so bad that they cancelled the stop in Kirkwall, and delayed our departure, hoping the winds would go down. Everyone was boarded by 6:30 pm with an expected departure time of 9 pm, which was strange. Not bad. We settled into our cabins, had dinner, explored the ship - all while in port. Finally we cast off, and Adam and I took dramamine. Passage from the southernmost part of Shetland - Sumburgh - and Fair Isle is always the roughest. It's kind of the Drake Passage of the north, with the wind and storms from the Atlantic spilling over into the north sea. But snug in our beds with our dramamine, Adam and I dozed while enjoying the 26' swells of the ocean. By midnight we were on calmer water and we slept - well - OK. 

We arrived in Aberdeen at 9 am for our 9:50 am train - but we only had to walk 15 minutes to get it, so that worked out fine. Taking the train almost the length of the UK was neat. Coast and coves. Farmland. Trees! Towns. Cathedrals. 

Our train ended in King's Cross. The famous train station from Harry Potter. It was really dramatic - and vibrant. And crowded. Making our way into the undergroud, squeezing onto the cars at rush hour, getting out of the underground - was challenging. Our airbnb key was not at the designated location and that location was not the airbnb itself. So it was a relief to get there and get settled. 

The next two days, we did London - our way. Our first stop was the Imperial War Museum (Adam's pick). It's an amazing museum, and I particularly appreciated the Holocaust exhibit - how it described the world situation leading up to the Holocaust. Adam found it all interesting. 

Afterward, we walked along the Thames and found this COVID monument, walked through St. James park, saw Buckingham Palace, then took a double decker bus back. 

The second day, Adam went to the HMS Belfast. Mom and I walked to the Tower Bridge and the Tower of London. 

Later we went to the Borough Market - which was amazing. 

Then Adam said that there was a warship arriving, so we went to see it come through the Tower Bridge and park next to the HMS Belfast. 

Next up: Portsmouth and the Tank Museum

Sun and Gale

SunSolar power isn't a great choice for Shetland - sun is a rare and precious thing. Last week, the forecast actually called for a sunny day, so we headed off to explore a new part of Shetland - Northmavine. We left Adam to sleep in, and because his stomach doesn't do well on endless small winding roads. 

Right before this sign is Mavis Grind. A spot where it's only 100 yards from the North Sea to the Atlantic. Until the 1950s, sailors really did portage their sixereens and other boats from one side to the other, even though they're much heavier than a canoe. Because otherwise, they had to sail all the way around Normavine - a considerable additional distance. 

 

Northmavine is home to the highest "hill" in Shetland - Ronas hill. It's 450m high, or 1480', which doesn't sound like much, but it be seen from a long way around. This morning, the air was crisp, the sun was bright, and it had just hailed, covering the hill with a white cape. 

Around some more bends, and we stopped by a sweet little pebble beach. 

Out on the far western side of Northmavine is one of my favorite spots in all of Shetland - Eshaness lighthouse and cliffs. Last summer, we came on a really windy day, and the waves crashing against the cliffs were especially dramatic, but the wind was so strong that mom couldn't walk around. Today we had a nice explore. 

Back in Lerwick, the seas were still calm and I got this picture by the Shetland museum. 

Gale

We had several gales during our visit to Shetland, but the last was one of the strongest. Sunday we decided to go out to Whalsey island, and while we did see it, it was hard to get out of the car - it was pouring rain and windy. Whalsey has traditionally been the home of the big pelagic trawlers, the boats that get fish from the middle of the water column like herring and mackerel. Some of those boats, like the Serenity shown here, are huge. 

What you don't see here is what I looked like after a quick walk to see the Serenity up close while we were waiting for the ferry. I have rarely been that wet! I was wearing my high viz bib overall rain suit, but that left my shoes, socks, rain coat, hat, hands - totally drenched. 

On the way home, we stopped at the Kergord Hatchery Bookshop, a cozy used bookshop off the beaten track next to a truly rushing river. 

The next day, Monday, was our last in Shetland. The rain had mostly passed, but I was intrigued by the forecast of winds of 40 mph, gusting up to 60 mph. That's a lot! Mom and I walked to Tesco, but I had to go back and pick her up - staying upright was just too much work. On my way back, a big gust came up and I hung onto a light pole until it passed. The sun came out a bit and I got this picture of the choppy water in the harbor right from the window of our airbnb. 

Up next: London

Northmavine Up Helly Aa

We're getting more adventurous! Tonight we ventured into what felt a very remote part of Shetland at night to see the burning of a local Up Helly Aa. 

At 5 pm, just as it was getting dark, we headed north along the big highway. By big, I mean one lane in each direction with a speed limit of 60 mph. Half an hour later, we made it to Brae, and Frankie's Fish and Chips, one of the best chippies in the UK. It was! The fish was huge and the breading was crisp and delicious. We'd been reading about farmed mussels, so we got some steamed in blue cheese. They were delicious! I wish we could share. Fresh seafood is just so good. 

Dark had fallen while we ate. We headed off for Hillswick, armed with the memory of a hand drawn map we got at the tourist office. The main highway, the A970, goes all the way to Hillswick, but as we got closer, it went from two lanes to one. Yes, one. For both directions of traffic. That's a single track. In some ways they're safer at night, because you can see people coming, But I worried about where I was going to park along it. 

We drove all the way into tiny of town of Hillswick, then backtracked to find the galley in a field by the Hillswick Hall. 

We parked near the end of the procession - near the site of the burning. We hoped. And waited. And looked at the sky. It was gorgeous. With so little light around, the stars were so bright! No northern lights - oh well. But it was a lovely evening. Slightly windy, not raining or sleeting or hailing. 

We arrived around 7 pm. The procession started around 7:30 and reached us around 8 - a LOT of people carrying burning torches. 

They sang the Up Helly Aa song, then threw their torches on the galley to light it up. They also launched this galley onto a bit of water. We were kind of shocked by the casual use of open fire. Lots of sparks falling to the grasslands. But things are pretty damp here, and it was all OK. Actually - it was really beautiful. Sad - they burned the gorgeous galley - but dramatic! 

We had a lovely chat with a guy from Orkney who was in the Jarl squad. You can kind of see how cold it was out and the jarl squad costumes. 

Afterwards, we had a 45 minute drive home in the dark. Up to 60 mph in the total dark, no street lights, with firths and voes to one side or another. It was a little nerve wracking, but just fine. I blessed the high beams! Quite an adventure. 

Up next: Sun and Gale

Sumburgh and St. Ninian's Beach

On a sunny Monday, we took Adam to Sumburgh, one of my favorite places in Shetland. It's a big hill/cliff right at the south end of the Shetland Islands, and, not surprising, there's a lighthouse. 

It's quite a walk up the hill, but it was a gorgeous day and the views were spectacular. 

Looking over the edge, we could see gulls nesting. Maybe herring gulls, maybe kittiwakes - I'm not sure. 

At the top, the lighthouse museum was closed, but there was a lot we could see from outside. We could even see Fair Isle in the distance, it was so clear! 

Last summer, the cliffs were even more exciting because of the puffins! They're at sea right now. They'll be back in a couple months to breed. 

On our way back, we stopped at St. Ninian's beach, which is a tombolo, two beaches separated by a spit of land. Last summer, we could have walked over to St. Ninian's Isle, but not now! It's still a gorgeous spot and lots of people had come down with their lunches. 

Next up: Northmavine Up Helly Aa

A Thursday

 In Minnesota, we often say "if you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes". But usually it doesn't change as often as that. Last Thursday, Shetland did!

We started the day with a gorgeous sunny sky. 

Soon it started hailing. 

But not much later that passed. Mom and I took a walk toward Staney Hill, to find the Staney Hall where the Quaker meeting was to meet that Sunday. Along the way, we saw crocuses coming up!  

But as we got around the corner to start up Staney Hill, the wind really picked up. It's a little hard to tell, but mom couldn't stay upright without a railing or this wall or a hand from me. It was crazy strong wind! 

And then it started raining/sleeting/hailing. Horizontally. Driving into our faces. Mom and I took shelter in a bus stop. 

But then it stopped and the sun came out again. 

Later I walked into town - past the play park where they burned the Up Helly Aa galley. It started precipitating again - more rain/sleet/hail. 

Followed by more blue skies and wonderful light! 

Next up: Sumburgh and St. Ninian's Isle

Up Helly Aa

We missed the big annual fire festival (Up Helly Aa) in Lerwick this year - it happened just before we arrived. But the communities around Shetland have their own smaller festivals, and we got to see some of one yesterday. 

Nesting and Girlsta Up Helly Aa
On the day of the fire festival, the Guizer Jarl and his squad tour the area schools. Which is a good thing - they spend a whole year making elaborate costumes, shields, weapons and helmets for that year. They deserve to be seen and admired closely in the light. At Tingwall school, all 85 students and their teachers came into the hall. Then the musicians arrived. Finally, the squad pored in, sang the Up Helly Aa song and did their battle cry. Then they circulated to talk to the crowd. We got to talk to the Guizer Jarl, his wife, his son, his niece and several others in his squad. 

Afterwards, we went to Nesting Primary School and found the galley in the playground. Last night, after a big procession, the galley was burned. It feels sad to me - but it must feel really dramatic. And I can see the point of a fire festival when it's been so dark and gray for so many months. 

Next up: A Thursday

The Big City

On the way back to Lerwick, we took a detour to the island of Fetlar. The ferry charges a flat fee on the trip from the "mainland" to Yell, then everything else is included, so we could hardly skip visiting yet another island, right? And it was different. 

Fetlar
Often called the garden of Shetland, geologic differences mean that it has been easier to grow crops on Fetlar. At one time, almost 800 people lived on this 7-mile wide island. But in the 18th century, land barons "cleared" this land of people (more clearances) for sheep. Today the island has a population of 68. There are still a lot of sheep, but apparently you can't make a living on sheep alone - everyone has at least one other job. We had a lovely visit with the shop keeper in Houbie, who seemed to know everyone. It was a gorgeous sunny day on Fetlar, showing off the beautiful land. We visited the Kirk (now owned by the islanders) and walked along a pretty beach. 

Lerwick
Another 25 minute ferry took us back to Yell, a drive across Yell, the short ferry to the "mainland" and 45 minutes of drive to Lerwick. The sun sets at 4:30, but it was such a clear day that it was just getting dark as we swung into town at 5:15. 

The "city" was a shock after the outer island. So many cars! So many lights! So many buildings! Remember - this is a massive town of 7,000 people. But arriving at Sarah's place was like coming home. We settled right in, and have been taking long rambles around town. 

We missed the big Up Helly Aa - the big annual fire festival - in Lerwick at the end of last month. But we can still see signs, including the Shop Window Competition. Here are some of the windows we saw:

Next Up: Up Helly Ah